Markham Fine Jewelers Blog
2017-11-22

With Black Friday just a few days away, you may be getting ready to sprint out to the stores to make some purchases. However, before you start shopping, we would like to bring to your attention three important things...

Watches make a wonderful gift. If you are planning on buying a watch, you already know this. But if you are not even thinking of a watch as a gift, this is a good time to consider it. To begin with, giving a watch is like giving the gift of time, and – better yet – it is timeless. With every glance at the wrist, he or she will remember you and the effort you put into finding the right watch to match your loved one’s personality. Also, in today’s world of experiences and narratives, you will have a story to tell when you gift a watch – about all of the things you thought of about that person when making the selection. What's more, a watch may be proudly worn for generations to come.

Consider the person before you buy. Once you have your mind set on a watch, we suggest you take some time to really think about the person you are buying for. What sort of interests or hobbies do they have? Are they sports enthusiasts, hikers, divers, swimmers, runners? Do they like cars, planes, boats? All of these answers will help guide you in the right direction when it comes to buying a watch. Sometimes a person doesn’t have any of those interests, so you may want to consider their style, taste and color preferences. Consider the person’s age, as well. Would they like a simple, easy-to-read dial, or one with some added functions and indications?

Set a budget. Before you get into the store and start your search, have an idea of just how much you want to spend. You can find a great watch for a few hundred dollars, a few thousand dollars or a few hundred thousand dollars.

While we said we were bringing you three things to think about for your holiday shopping list, we want to toss in these two tidbits:

• Be sure to buy from a reputable, authorized source for that watch so that the manufacturer’s warranty is valid.

• You don’t have to go it alone. We have a great, knowledgeable staff that can help you find the perfect gift.

2017-11-16

Every year since 2011, the Swiss watch industry has celebrated its best and brightest with the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) awards, which are designed to promote the concept of fine watchmaking. Many would refer to the GPHG awards as the red carpet of the watch industry. This year's event was held last week in Geneva, with awards given to watch brands for watchmaking excellence, innovation and more.

Exactly 72 watches competed in the final phase of the judging, with 15 earning prizes. Those winning watches will be on display this week in Dubai at the Dubai Watch Week, which is open to the public.

Here, we bring you a quick look at those top winners at this 17th award ceremony. We are proud to carry a number of these brands in our store, and we invite to you stop in any time to see the brands and watches that won.

2017 PRIZE LIST:

“Petite Aiguille” Watch Prize: Tudor, Black Bay Chrono

Sports Watch Prize: Ulysse Nardin, Marine Regatta

Men’s Watch Prize: Bvlgari, Octo Finissimo Automatic

“Revival” Prize: Longines, The Longines Avigation BigEye

Ladies’ Watch Prize: Chanel, Première Camélia Skeleton

Chronograph Watch Prize: Parmigiani Fleurier, Tonda Chronor Anniversaire

Tourbillon and Escapement Watch Prize: Bvlgari, Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Skeleton

Calendar Watch Prize: Greubel Forsey, QP à Équation

Travel Time Watch Prize: Parmigiani Fleurier, Toric Hemisphères Rétrograde

Mechanical Exception Watch Prize: Vacheron Constantin, Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600

Innovation Prize: Zenith, Defy Lab

Ladies’ High-Mech Watch Prize: Van Cleef & Arpels, Lady Arpels Papillon Automate

Jewellery Watch Prize: Chopard, Lotus Blanc Watch

Artistic Crafts Watch Prize: Voutilainen, Aki-No-Kure

“Aiguille d’Or” Prize: Chopard, L.U.C Full Strike

Special Jury Prize: Suzanne Rohr and Anita Porchet

2017-11-14

Last week in Geneva, a bi-annual event of significant magnitude in the watch world took place. Only Watch 2017 is a charitable auction wherein top watch brands create a one-of-a-kind watch donated to the cause. All proceeds go to fight Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. This year’s auction by Christie’s witnessed 49 unique watches up for sale. The end result: a total of CHF 10.776 million ($10.7 million) was raised. (The Swiss franc and U.S. dollar are currently trading at approximately equal value).

The top three lots: Patek Phillipe (Lot 12) sold for a hammer price of CHF 6.2 million; F. P. Journe watch (Lot 32) sold for CHF 1.15 million at hammer price; the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual calendar watch (Lot 47) came in third with a final sale/hammer price of CHF 800,000.

This year marked the second time that a Patek Philippe watch emerged as the top lot. The unique titanium Minute Repeater Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Patek Philippe 5208T watch features a unique blue guilloché dial and a specially finished movement coated in dark gray.

At Only Watch, the sale of the F.P. Journe Monopusher Chronograph Rattrapante for CHF 1.15 million set a new mark for the most expensive F.P. Journe watch ever sold at auction. It fetched three times its estimated price. The watch features a new 44mm case made in tantalum and an all-new column-wheel chronograph in 18-karat rose gold.

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Only Watch with unique color combination earned almost 10 times its estimate, when it sold for CHF 800,000. The specially made timepiece features a new color-way in bright yellow (rubber strap) and black ceramic case, bezel and bracelet. It also features a sky blue dial and orange-hued moonphase indications.

Just four other watches topped the $100,000 mark. Lot 6 — a Tudor watch — sold for $350,000; Lot 16, an MB&F watch, sold for $210,000. Hublot's watch (Lot 24) honoring Usain Bolt went for a hammer price of $150,000, and a Breguet (Lot 41) went for $110,000.

We saw a few surprises in the typically termed “affordable watch” category, with a TAG Heuer Luxury Kit Only Watch Special Edition Connected watch taking more than double its anticipated estimate and selling for 38,000 CHF. The Only Watch version is crafted in black case and dial and bright yellow rubber strap and houses the COSC-certified Heuer-02T chronograph tourbillon mechanical module.

2017-11-08

When it comes to luxury Swiss-made watches, some brands pull out all the stops when it comes to certifications and seals. But only those located in Geneva can lay claim to the Hallmark of Geneva — also known as the Geneva Seal. Additionally, it is not just good enough to be located in Geneva (otherwise many brands would move there) to get the Seal. It is a designation that is earned and it is the ultimate certification of quality in fine watchmaking.

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Essentially, the Geneva Seal — referred to in French as the "Poincon de Genève" — is a quality seal awarded only to watches that have passed an intense inspection by an independent bureau operating under state control in Geneva. The certification is issued by TimeLab – the Geneva Laboratory of Horology and Micro-engineering.

To even be considered as a candidate to submit watches for inspection by the Canton of Geneva, the watch and all of its parts must be manufactured in the canton. Even diamond-set watches must have the diamond setting executed in Geneva. Once that criteria is met, the watch movement must meet 12 additional criteria relating to the quality of its finishing and materials, as well as other factors.

The finished watch is inspected for craftsmanship, precision and other timekeeping values and a certificate is only awarded to watches that offer exceptional decorative finishes, qualifying them as works of art. Additionally, the certificate guarantees the watch is not only of top-quality craftsmanship, but also is chronometrically precise.  If the watch passes, the Seal — featuring the Geneva Coat of Arms — is stamped on the watch movement. It includes a unique code so that owner of the watch can verify the authenticity of the Seal.

Logo_Genf

It should be noted that not just the visible pieces of the watch movement must be finely finished. Also judged are the screws, pins and tiny parts that are not seen. Because earning the Poincon de Genève is no easy feat, there are just a handful of companies that pursue the Seal.

2017-11-03

This is one thing you won't want to forget. Daylight Saving (not savings) Time ends this weekend. At precisely 2 a.m. on Sunday November 5, we set our clocks back by one hour. This fall-back operation gives those who like to sleep in another hour of rest. However, if you are not a night owl, you may want to set your clocks back before you go to bed on Saturday night — lest you forget that you get an extra hour of sleep.

The "spring ahead/fall back" concept of Daylight Saving time may well have been the brainchild of American Benjamin Franklin. In his 1784 essay, "An Economical Project for Diminishing the Cost of Light," he suggested people get out of bed earlier in the morning to use the light instead of burning more candles at night. The concept didn't take root.

However, in 1895, New Zealander George Vernon Hudson, who collected insects in his free time, wanted more daylight time for his studies, so he presented a report to the Wellington Philosophical Society proposing a two-hour daylight savings time program. Again, the concept did not take hold.

Then, about 10 years later in 1905, British builder William Willett proposed the idea yet again — suggesting setting clocks ahead in April and switching them back in September. Legislator Robert Pearce thought the idea had merit and introduced a bill to the House of Commons in 1908. The bill met opposition from the local British farmers and it did not pass.

Finally, in 1916, Germany became the first country to implement Daylight Saving Time.

This is also a great time of year to remember to check batteries in smoke detectors and change them, and to perform other annual duties around the house. Oh, and don't forget to change your watches.

2017-11-01

Hollywood icon Paul Newman's 1968 Rolex Daytona Watch, which was a gift from his wife and actress Joanne Woodward, sold for $17.75 million, setting a world record at the Phillips Auction titled "Winning Icons — Legendary Watches of the 20th Century."

Notice of the sale was announced back in June and, since then, has been a hot topic of conversation among watch collectors. The opening price of the watch was set at $1 million, but as soon as the auctioneer got the sum out of his mouth, a bidder immediately upped the offer to $10 million.

The watch was a Rolex timepiece that Woodward most likely purchased nearly 50 years ago for somewhere between $200 and $300. At the time, it had an unusual dial that Rolex called "exotic" thanks to the three colors: cream dial, black subdial, red accents.

Woodward was a bit nervous about Newman's fast driving on and off the set. So, sometime during or just after the filming of the movie Winning (in which she and Newman starred), Woodward purchased the watch and had the back engraved with the words: “Drive Carefully" and her signoff "Me."

Bidding on the watch escalated for 12 minutes, culminating in a record for the highest price ever paid for a watch at auction. A portion of the proceeds will go to the Nell Newman Foundation and another portion will to benefit the Newman’s Own Foundation.

All images courtesy of Phillips in Association with Bacs and Russo.

2017-10-26

With Halloween around the corner, it's a perfect time to take a close-up look at the watch world's use of "black" in creating watches of substance. Black-clad timepieces are all the rage these days, thanks to their mysterious, and often stealth, look. Depending on the watch, the black color is obtained in a variety of manners. Some brands turn to black materials, such as carbon fiber or black ceramic for their cases and then finish the watch with a black strap. At the high-end of the luxury spectrum, some brands even turn to new high-tech materials that include layered carbon and other sophisticated alloys borrowed from the auto and aviation fields.

Generally, however, black is achieved using either a PVD or DLC process. In PVD — physical vapor deposition — a thin black coating is applied to stainless steel or titanium cases and bracelets. The coating techniques for PVD can vary, and the thickness of the coating can also vary. Typically PVD vaporizes materials using a high-tech vacuum process and then the vaporized material is deposited onto the case or bracelet. The process is carefully monitored and controlled in order to achieve the desired hardness, film structure, depth of color and other features. PVD processes can include ion plating (IP) and Ion Beam Deposition (IBD). The advantages of PVD is that the coating, once applied, adds hardness to the piece and typically won't scratch or corrode.

Diamond Like Carbon, DLC, is another method used, typically at the high-end luxury side, as it is more expensive. In this process, amorphous carbon material is used. It is applied as a coating to the watch and/or bracelet. There are seven different types of carbon coatings, all of which have hybridized carbon atoms in them that endow them with diamond-like properties, including hardness and high sheen. This coating is even more resistant to scratches, abrasions and corrosion. We invite you in anytime to take a close look at our black-clad timepieces.

2017-10-24

Every month like clockwork, the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry (FH) carefully tracks and reports on global watch exports. Recent trends show an uptick in Swiss Watch exports, reversing a period of lackluster performance caused by changing economic and political circumstances around the globe.

For the past four straight months, export numbers have been on the rise, and for the month of August 2017 — over the month of August 2016 — there was a 4.2 percent increase in Swiss watch exports. The total value of exports as of the close of August this year was 1.4 billion Swiss Francs ($1.41 billion).  The solid 4.2 percent rise in overall exports supports the notion that consumers around the globe continue to view Swiss watches as highly desirable luxury items.

In a world where no one really "needs" a watch, we are seeing more self purchases and gift purchases of watches — both new and vintage. We encourage you to stop in and see our great selection of watches. Your next timepiece could be the single most important statement about yourself that you can make.

2017-10-19

Most of our clients own more than just one watch. In fact, many have started a nice collection. So, the question we hear all the time is "How do I keep my collection safe? How do I secure my watches when I'm at home or traveling?"

In addition to carrying insurance on your watches at all times, here are a few other suggestions.

1) Watch Winders and Boxes.  If you have just a small collection of watches and they are covered under your homeowners insurance, you may consider tucking them away in automatic watch winders and specific watch boxes in a closet in a less-trafficked room of your house. Granted this is not a lock-and-key, keep-out-the-thieves answer, but your watches will be all in one place and properly wound. You could even set up a special hidden closet that doesn't look like a closet — i.e., a door behind a mirror, etc. Again, we only suggest this idea for small collections of not very expensive watches that are covered under your homeowners insurance.

2) Safe Deposit Boxes. If you don't have the space in your house for a luxurious safe, or even an in-wall, larger-sized safe, then at the very least, rent a safe deposit box at a bank or local Wells Fargo. It is important to ask, however, how much the boxes are insured for. You don't want to be left without enough insurance if something were to go wrong.  It should be noted that the drawback to the safe deposit box is the fact that if you change watches often, you may be making multiple trips per week to the bank.

3)  At-Home Safes. The best safe storage of watches you are not currently wearing is an at-home safe. Today, there are a host of safe companies that offer stunning safes meant to look like pieces of furniture, with wood finishes, brass elements, and drawers, doors and winders within. Buying a small safe that can be carried away is not the answer. Invest in a safe that is anchored in place and that can protect your watches from both theft and fire.

Photos courtesy of Orbita Watch Winders.

2017-10-17

Late last month in Evanston, Ill., a suburb of Chicago, a new museum of rare timepieces and inspirational stained glass opened to the public. The Halim Time & Glass Museum features one of the most comprehensive timepiece collections, with approximately 1,100 pieces on display. The museum also showcases faithfully restored 19th century stained glass works of art.

The collection of extraordinarily rare timepieces consists of clocks from all over the world. The Museum was founded by Cameel Halim, who — along with his family — own most of these pieces as part of their personal passion.

The watch collection is so extensive that the museum has hired two full-time clockmakers, who are skilled in repair and restoration. They are also entrusted to keep the clocks wound and running.

The earliest piece in the museum’s collection is an Egyptian sundial. There is also a room dedicated to the imperial Chinese clocks and an English room with important British clocks made by such masters as Thomas Tompion and George Graham, among others. There is also a nice collection of American clocks that details the history of how U.S. clockmakers led advances in mass manufacturing in the early 1800s.

Special pieces include a clock made for Napoleon, an elephant clock from 1750 said to have been in the summer palace of Russian empress Catherine the Great, and a German longcase clock from 1785 that contains a dulcimer and a pipe organ. It is one of just eight of its kind known to exist in the world.

So, if you find yourself in Chicago, you may want to carve out a little extra time for a visit to this new museum.

Credits: All images courtesy of the HALIM TIME AND GLASS MUSEUM.

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